Schreiner Jewelry: The Ultimate Book for Vintage Costume Jewelry Lovers
Schreiner: Masters Of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewelry
If you are a fan of vintage costume jewelry, you have probably heard of Schreiner. Schreiner is one of the most renowned and respected names in the field of high-end costume jewelry, a genre of jewelry that was popularized by Coco Chanel in the early twentieth century. Costume jewelry is jewelry that is made of non-precious materials such as glass, plastic, metal, or enamel, but is designed to look like fine jewelry. Costume jewelry can be colorful, creative, and expressive, and can complement any outfit or occasion.
Schreiner: Masters Of Twentieth-Century Costume Je convoy bendita conci
Schreiner jewelry is especially admired for its unique and innovative designs, its use of custom-made stones, its hand-made settings, and its superb craftsmanship. Schreiner jewelry has a rich and fascinating history that spans from the Great Depression to the feminist movement, and has been worn by some of the most iconic figures in fashion and entertainment. In this article, we will explore the origins, the styles, the clients, the legacy, and the collectibility of Schreiner jewelry, and why it is considered one of the masters of twentieth-century costume jewelry.
The Origins of Schreiner Jewelry
The story of Schreiner jewelry begins with Henry Schreiner, a German immigrant who came to New York City in 1923. Henry had a background in fine jewelry making, having worked for companies such as Cartier and Harry Winston. However, he had a passion for costume jewelry, which he saw as a more creative and affordable way to adorn women. He started his own company in 1932, making costume jewelry for department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman.
Henry's early designs were influenced by his European heritage and his knowledge of fine jewelry. He used high-quality materials such as rhinestones, crystals, pearls, and brass. He also experimented with different shapes, colors, and cuts of stones. He was inspired by nature, art deco, and geometric motifs. Some of his signature pieces from this period include floral brooches, chandelier earrings, and bib necklaces.
The Golden Age of Schreiner Jewelry
Schreiner jewelry reached its peak of popularity and recognition in the 1940s and 1950s. This was partly due to the scarcity of fine jewelry during World War II, which increased the demand for costume jewelry. It was also due to the rise of the American ready-to-wear industry, which created a need for accessories that could match the new styles and colors of clothing.
Schreiner jewelry stood out from its competitors with its distinctive and innovative features. One of them was the use of custom-made stones, which Henry sourced from Europe and Japan. He would often order stones in unusual colors, such as purple, green, or blue, or in special shapes, such as teardrops, baguettes, or marquises. He would also mix different types and sizes of stones to create contrast and depth.
Another feature was the use of hand-made settings, which Henry and his team crafted in their workshop. They would often use a technique called hook-and-eye construction, which involved attaching the stones to metal wires and then hooking them together. This allowed for more flexibility and movement in the jewelry, as well as a more secure fit. They would also use a technique called ruffle setting, which involved bending the metal prongs around the stones to create a scalloped edge. This added more texture and dimension to the jewelry, as well as a more refined look.
The Signature Styles of Schreiner Jewelry
One of the most recognizable and admired styles of Schreiner jewelry is the inverted stone. This is when Henry would set the stones upside down, so that the pointed side would face up. This created a more dramatic and sparkling effect, as well as a more interesting shape. Henry would often use inverted stones in his dome-shaped pieces, such as brooches, rings, or bracelets. These pieces would have a curved surface that would be covered with inverted stones of different colors and sizes, creating a stunning mosaic-like pattern.
Another style that Schreiner jewelry is known for is the color combination. Henry had a keen eye for color and a daring sense of experimentation. He would often pair colors that were not commonly seen together, such as pink and green, purple and orange, or blue and yellow. He would also use colors that were not typical for costume jewelry, such as black, brown, or gray. He would balance these colors with clear or neutral stones, creating a harmonious and sophisticated palette.
The Famous Clients of Schreiner Jewelry
Schreiner jewelry was not only popular among the general public, but also among celebrities and fashion icons. Some of the most famous clients of Schreiner jewelry include Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, and Grace Kelly. These women wore Schreiner jewelry on screen, on stage, or in public appearances, showcasing its glamour and elegance.
For example, Marilyn Monroe wore a pair of Schreiner chandelier earrings in her movie Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953), where she sang the famous song "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend". Audrey Hepburn wore a Schreiner necklace and earrings in her movie Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961), where she played the chic and charming Holly Golightly. Jacqueline Kennedy wore a Schreiner brooch on her pink suit on the day of her husband's assassination in 1963, making it one of the most iconic and tragic images in history.
The Legacy of Schreiner Jewelry
Schreiner jewelry continued to evolve and innovate in the 1960s and 1970s, under the leadership of Henry's daughter Terry Schreiner. Terry took over the company after Henry's death in 1954, and brought her own vision and style to the brand. She was influenced by the social changes and cultural movements of the time, such as the youth rebellion, the hippie movement, the feminist movement, and the disco era.
Terry introduced new designs and materials to Schreiner jewelry, such as plastic beads, wood elements, enamel coatings, and metal chains. She also experimented with new shapes and forms, such as abstract motifs, animal figures, geometric patterns, and oversized pieces. She created jewelry that was bold, colorful, eclectic, and fun.
The Influence of Schreiner Jewelry on Fashion and Culture
Schreiner jewelry not only reflected the fashion and culture of its time but also influenced it. Schreiner jewelry was worn by some of the most influential designers and models of the twentieth century, such as Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent , Elsa Schiaparelli, Twiggy , Veruschka, and Lauren Hutton . These people helped shape the trends and tastes of their era with their style and creativity.
Schreiner jewelry was also featured in some of the most prestigious publications and media outlets of its time, such as Vogue , Harper's Bazaar, The Collectibility of Schreiner Jewelry Today
Schreiner jewelry is highly collectible today for its quality, rarity, and beauty. Schreiner jewelry was never mass produced, and many pieces were made in limited quantities or as one-of-a-kind samples. Schreiner jewelry was also not widely advertised or distributed, and most pieces were sold directly to upscale boutiques or private clients. Schreiner jewelry was also not always signed, making it difficult to identify and authenticate.
However, these factors also add to the appeal and value of Schreiner jewelry for collectors and enthusiasts. Schreiner jewelry represents a unique and important chapter in the history of American costume jewelry, and showcases the artistic vision and craftsmanship of Henry Schreiner and his family. Schreiner jewelry also offers a wide range of styles, colors, and designs to suit any taste or occasion.
Schreiner jewelry can be found in various sources, such as online auctions, vintage shops, antique shows, or estate sales. However, it is advisable to buy Schreiner jewelry from reputable dealers or experts who can verify its authenticity and condition. Schreiner jewelry can also be seen in museums, such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, or in books, such as Schreiner: Masters of Twentieth-Century Costume Jewelry by Carole Tanenbaum and Eve Townsend.
Conclusion
Schreiner jewelry is more than just costume jewelry. It is a form of art that expresses the creativity, innovation, and passion of its makers. It is also a reflection of the fashion and culture of its time, capturing the moods and trends of the twentieth century. Schreiner jewelry is a treasure that deserves to be admired, appreciated, and collected by anyone who loves vintage costume jewelry.
If you are interested in learning more about Schreiner jewelry, you can visit the following websites or resources:
Vintage Schreiner Jewelry Collectors Weekly
Life is Too Short Not to Sparkle: Stunning and Distinct Schreiner Jewelry DSF Antique Jewelry
Schreiner Jewelry - Facebook
FAQs
How can I tell if my Schreiner jewelry is authentic?
There are some clues that can help you identify authentic Schreiner jewelry, such as:
The use of custom-made stones in unusual colors and shapes, such as keystone-shaped stones.
The use of hand-made settings with hook-and-eye construction or ruffle setting.
The use of inverted stones that are set upside down.
The use of color combinations that are uncommon or unexpected.
The presence of a signature or a hang tag that says "Schreiner" or "Schreiner New York". However, not all Schreiner pieces are signed.
It is best to consult an expert or a reputable dealer who can confirm the authenticity and value of your Schreiner jewelry.
How much is my Schreiner jewelry worth?
The value of your Schreiner jewelry depends on several factors, such as:
The rarity and desirability of the design and style.
The condition and quality of the materials and craftsmanship.
The demand and market for vintage costume jewelry.
The provenance and history of the piece.
The price of Schreiner jewelry can vary widely depending on these factors. Some pieces can sell for hundreds or thousands of dollars, while others can sell for less than a hundred dollars. You can check online auctions or price guides to get an idea of the current market value of your Schreiner jewelry.
How should I care for my Schreiner jewelry?
To preserve the beauty and longevity of your Schreiner jewelry, you should follow some basic care tips, such as:
Store your Schreiner jewelry in a cool, dry, and dark place, away from heat, moisture, and sunlight.
Keep your Schreiner jewelry in a separate box or pouch, to prevent it from scratching or tangling with other jewelry.
Clean your Schreiner jewelry gently with a soft cloth or a mild soap and water solution. Do not use harsh chemicals or abrasives that can damage the stones or the metal.
Avoid wearing your Schreiner jewelry when swimming, bathing, exercising, or doing any activity that can expose it to water, sweat, perfume, or cosmetics.
Who are some of the other famous costume jewelry designers?
There are many other costume jewelry designers who have made a name for themselves in the industry, such as:
Coco Chanel, who popularized costume jewelry as a chic and affordable accessory for women.
Christian Dior, who created glamorous and feminine costume jewelry to match his haute couture designs.
Elsa Schiaparelli, who collaborated with artists such as Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau to create whimsical and surreal costume jewelry.
Miriam Haskell, who specialized in intricate and elaborate costume jewelry made of beads, pearls, and filigree.
Trifari, who produced elegant and sophisticated costume jewelry with high-quality materials and craftsmanship.
What are some of the benefits of collecting vintage costume jewelry?
Collecting vintage costume jewelry can be a rewarding and enjoyable hobby for many reasons, such as:
You can own a piece of history and culture that reflects the style and spirit of its era.
You can express your personality and taste with unique and distinctive pieces that are not available in mass-produced modern jewelry.
You can support small businesses and artisans who create and sell vintage costume jewelry with passion and expertise.
You can invest in a valuable asset that can appreciate over time and be passed down to future generations.
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